How to build a street stock

how to build a street stock

Street Stock Build

Feb 26,  · Building a new street stock race car at GRT. Apr 01,  · And the interesting thing about this build is how easy it is to build a race engine that stays within the spirit of Street Stock racing without wasting lots of time and money trying to refurbish Author: Jeff Huneycutt.

The Dirt Oval racing scene has grown in popularity over the last few years as drivers have looked for a new racing outlet that still requires speed and skill along with some scale, realistic looking vehicles. One of the easiest and cheapest classes to join is the popular Street Stock ti. At this event they debuted their first line of Dirt Oval racing products specifically designed for the Street Stock class, and in this edition of The Garage we will take a look at these products and show how easy it is to get into Street Stock racing.

Team Assoicated is well know for their great distribution system so racers should have builc trouble finding this part at their local hobby shop. These holes are used to raise the height of your body with those Team Associated what country is morocco located in posts. To ot the posts correctly through the towers you will need four 3x18mm BHCS screws for etock rear tower and two 3x10mm BHCS screws for the front stofk.

Since these towers are thicker than the stock parts the longer screws are needed now, plus the rear tower needs stdeet incorporate the T6. These are not included with the JConcepts Street Stock Conversion towers, as indicated on the packaging, and most likely you have these screws already rolling around in your tool box somewhere.

The rear tower stredt four sets of holes, but two sets are used at time due to the design of the T6. The Combo Thumb Wrench came in handy here since there is not a lot of room to work with on the back side of the front tower. These tires are available for both 2WD and 4WD buggies, for both front and rear 2. These tires help to bridge the gap between the ever-popular Double Dees and other pins tire designs that JConcepts has released over the years.

The angled, square pins are stacked vertically so they fold and flex evenly across the tire. This design helps the Sprinters to be competitive on loose surfaces that are both dusty and wet.

The outer sidewall of the tire also features angled pins steret help stdeet car release in the turns more which is key in dirt oval racing. The rear of the Camaro body incorporates a built-in spoiler to gain more downforce on the track. Once it returned I trimmed it out. So, I knew that a custom paint job might not last long very long once this hit the track.

So, make sure to line the body up before you dig out any holes when working with this body. On the backside is adhesive so you just need to peel streeet the white backing and buold press the foam washer into place.

This entire process would be easier if I removed the front shock tower but if you already have it installed it is still possible to get by. But if you flip it around and add a few small holes you can use it as a rear bumper too. These fit perfectly onto the B6. They also offer stiffer springs rates than OEM springs since they are rated between five what type of conjunction is than eight pounds.

I hope you enjoyed this edition of the Garage, and a complete list of the items featured in this story is listed below:. Skip to main content. You are here Home » Garage. I also removed the body too.

Cylinder Heads and Valvetrain

Street Stock Build. Project By Chilly. The Dirt Oval racing scene has grown in popularity over the last few years as drivers have looked for a new racing outlet that still requires speed and skill along with some scale, realistic looking vehicles. One of the easiest and cheapest classes to join is the popular Street Stock . Aug 01,  · Now, there are several areas of the build that will need to be addressed to conform to Kimmel's Street Stock Nats' rule book, including door bars, firewalls, and fuel euro-caspian.comted Reading Time: 8 mins. Swap Option: Medieval will build the chassis using one of our sandblasted frames. Customer is to bring a clean non-sandblasted frame when picking up the chassis. Core frames are available for purchase. Built standard with aftermarket firewall and floorpan; If stock .

The beauty of stock car racing is the great variety of classes available to choose from. You certainly can spend a ton of money racing if you want to, but there are racing classes that will allow you the thrill of door-to-door racing without requiring a liquid-cooled checkbook. The typical entry-level class in stock car racing is called Strictly Stock or Street Stock. The rulebook, as the name suggests, almost always mandates stock or stock replacement parts. There are severe restrictions on how many and what types of race specific components are allowed.

And as you might guess, this is especially true for the engine. In this book I am detailing three separate engine builds for three distinctly separate racing classes. This chapter details a Street Stock-style engine built around the rules you typically see in this class.

Street Stock almost always has the most restrictive rules, and they often vary from track to track. Still, the general outline is that a stock block, cylinder heads, and crankshaft must be used.

Connecting rods and the pistons may be aftermarket, but they must be stock replacement and cannot be forged. A racing oil pan is usually allowed. This is because a stock pan does not provide enough oil control, allowing centrifugal forces to push the oil away from the oil-pump pickup, which can lead to engine damage.

Other common restrictions which limit power include maximum cam lift, minimum manifold vacuum pressure at idle, and a very small cfm 2-barrel carburetor.

Building Street Stock racing engines is also a fun challenge because the secret to a winning engine is all about best assembly practices, not how much money you can spend on the latest racing widget. The bad news is you are forced to race with many engine components that were designed and manufactured with economy in mind rather than high performance or competition. You simply cannot bolt together a Street Stock engine like you would a rebuild for your pickup truck and expect it to work very well on the racetrack.

The key to success is carefully modifying the stock components your rulebook requires so that they not only produce maximum power but can also withstand the rigors of high-rpm oval-track racing. Ken and his brother Kevin lead KT Engines, which is unique because it regularly builds engines that span the motorsports spectrum. When it comes to racing, KT Engines knows all the tricks and can translate many of the ideas that work well in high-end racing engines to the Street-Stock level. The engine that I am building here is designed to fit within the most common Street Stock rules.

It is likely that your rulebook will differ in several minor points from the parameters I set up for our build. There may also be areas of your rulebook that are more lenient for you to take advantage of, as well as restrictions that would make portions of this build illegal.

Regardless, the Street Stock class is a great place to begin your engine-building career. The choices for your engine block are simple. Ordering a new block from GMPP is more expensive than digging a Chevy out of an old truck in a junkyard, but it also has a few advantages.

A new block arrives with all the stock dimensions intact, so you know exactly what you have to work with. New stock blocks from GMPP are available with four-bolt mains, but two-piece rear main seals are no longer available. For more information on converting a one-piece seal block to two-piece, see Chapter 2.

If you are working with a block that has been removed from a passenger car, your best bet is to completely strip it and take it to an engine shop for a complete cleaning and inspection. This process includes baking the block to burn off water and lubricants and then bead blasting it to get rid of more stubborn carbon deposits and other debris.

After that, the block should be inspected for problem areas and Magnafluxed to find any cracks. If it passes inspection, you can have your engine builder complete any necessary machining processes, including honing the cylinders, line honing the main bores, and decking the block.

For some of these processes, such as decking the block, some pre-fitting is required. You may need to take the block back to your shop after cleaning and inspection. Once there, pre-fit the rotating assembly with your crank and one rod and piston so that you can measure how much the block will need to be decked. After the machining is complete, you can have the block cleaned if that facility has a mechanical washer, or you can take the block home and clean it yourself.

Be sure to keep a thin coat of WD or some other type of lubricant on any freshly machined surfaces to prevent corrosion.

Here is one area where you generally have a little more leeway. Rules require stock replacement rods and pistons, but it is possible to stay within the rules and make some real improvements in the area of the rotating assembly. Speed Pro produces several pistons that qualify as stock replacements. They are hypereutectic, which means they are still a casting, but with high silicon content that makes them stronger than stock castings.

The pistons are also available with or without a frictionreducing coating on the skirts. Finally, some pistons also are available with a floating wristpin. For this build, I chose a hypereutectic piston with the coating on the skirts and floating pins. By using pistons that have only two valve pockets, I planned to increase the compression ratio a couple of points. But upon further inspection of the pistons, I realized that this piece uses the same slug as the piston with four valve pockets.

This means it has extra material under the piston top, into which the pockets can be cut. Because of this, these pistons are approximately 40 grams heavier than the pistons with the stockstyle four-valve pockets.

If your rules allow either piston style, you have a choice between a little higher compression ratio or a lighter-weight rotating assembly. The pros and cons of either choice probably balance out in terms of final engine performance. For connecting rods, I went with a relatively new company called K1 Technologies.

K1 specializes in producing cost-effective performance rods. Although it is a new company, K1 is a division of Carrillo, which has a fantastic reputation in the racing industry.

K1 offers a stock-appearing forged rod, which has several advantages over an actual stock unit. The rods arrive pre-balanced and utilize cap screws, which are significantly stronger than press-in rod bolts and nuts. The cap screw design is lighter because the nuts are eliminated. It also produces a stronger and more stable connecting rod.

Generally, a stock cast crank, while certainly not as strong as a forging, can reliably handle hp. Exercise caution when using a refurbished crank. In order to bring a used crank back to usable status, the rod and main journals are sometimes turned down 0. The crank is bone stock and retains the stock 2.

Almost all rulebooks require stock cylinder heads. This is the area of the engine that requires the most work to make the stock components usable for racing. The stamp that looks like two camel humps on the ends of the heads easily distinguishes these. Double Humps are becoming scarce however, and most tracks are outlawing them. You most likely will have to go with a set of standard degree Chevy heads, which was our choice for this build. Our heads are also used, which is what most engine builders will have to begin with.

Since valve sizes cannot be modified, it makes sense to save a few bucks by reusing the stock valves. More modern valvespring designs can help performance considerably. Newer GM LS1 engines use beehive-shaped valvesprings that start out at a standard diameter but have a progressively smaller diameter towards the top of the spring.

This lightens the spring and also allows a considerably smaller and lighter retainer. Since most rulebooks require stock-style components, these springs can be legally installed on a degree cylinder head.

Comp Cams is currently leading the way in producing highquality beehive springs and retainers for racing use. The drawback with these springs is that they cannot be double nested, so they do not work well with very aggressive solid cams. But since Street Stock rules mandate hydraulic cams with limited lift, they are absolutely perfect for this application.

Another quirk of Street Stocklevel racing is that stock-style ignitions are required. There is no external coil. Even in a stock low-compression engine, a stock HEI cannot produce enough spark to reliably fire all eight cylinders after about 5, rpm. Increasing the compression makes the problem even worse. Because of this, several ignition companies produce HEI upgrade kits. Since most Street Stock rules will not allow an external coil or control box, HEI upgrades generally center around a new high-power internal coil and a more efficient module— which essentially is the brain of the unit.

Most upgrade kits are relatively easy to install and work well. Performance Distributors specializes in HEI ignitions and will custom-build units for racers. I have previously tested these units and found they can reliably fire a race engine well beyond 8, rpm, which is more than a Street Stock will ever see.

This is an advantage because the extra power produced by this ignition allows you to open up the plug gaps and still get a reliable spark. A wider plug gap helps produce more efficient combustion in the chambers, which is especially useful in this engine because the stock cylinder heads are not nearly as efficient as modern designs. Rules disallow forged pistons but do allow hypereutectic pistons, which are considerably stronger than stock cast units.

Hypereutectic simply means these pistons have a higher silicon level than most aluminum castings. One effect of the increased silicon is to limit heat expansion, so pistonto- bore clearance should be considerably tighter.

Where a forged race piston may require 0. Be sure your machinist knows exactly what pistons you are using before honing your block. First, most rulebooks allow you to bore the cylinders 0.

Second, stock blocks are not honed with a deck plate in place. Torquing the cylinder heads on the deck will distort the cylinder bores, so a race engine should always be honed with a deck plate in place to mimic the distortion caused by the heads. Before decking the block, engine builder Ken Troutman mocks up the numberone cylinder with the piston and rod complete with bearings. The crank is held in place by the two outer main caps and bearings.

The piston was found to be 0. Measure piston depth at TDC at all four corners of the block cylinders 1, 2, 7, and 8 so that you can tell if the deck of the block slopes from one end to the other.


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